It was the 1920s and silk production in Patterson N.J. was in full swing. The old textile factories had been converted into silk mills back in 1915. A third of the countries’ silk was produced in New Jersey and 95% of it was produced in Patterson earning it the title ‘Silk City’.
My Grandmother was in her 20s at the time and planning her wedding. For reasons I do not know, she chose dark blue velvet for her wedding dress. What a daring choice in her day. Velvet was mostly used for Jackets, Capes and other outer wear. It was seen in the colder months as short sleeveless evening dresses but that is not what she wore. Hers’ was a long sleeve, vintage to her time, high neck gown. A classic design in a royal blue silk velvet, she looked stunning.
One could guess that she chose velvet because it was readily available being she lived in Patterson. It was a statement fabric back then, reflective of wealth and luxury. Much of her and her groom to be had family that worked in the silk mills and I have seen some of the samples they brought home. The silk velvet ribbons and jewel toned fabrics were remarkable. Perhaps the material to make her gown was brought home from one of them. Personally I like to think she was a fashion icon in our family. A maverick of personal style following in the footsteps of royalty and the like, as the history of velvet is as vast and rich as the fabric itself.
– The History of Velvet
Velvet has been a part of history dating back to 2000 BC where it could be found in Egypt and China. From China, velvet made its way to Europe by the many trade routes called the Silk Road. The earliest reference to velvet in Europe dates back to 1311 AD and speaks of items owned by Pope Clement V. Velvet in Europe at that time was mostly white to prevent fading and it was considered more elegant. It took centuries before dark colors started to emerge. The red and royal blues that were so popular with royalty, they became traditional colors and were used in conjunction with specific patterns to symbolize specific families. The reds and blues of that time were quite dark due to the natural dyes used during that time period.
In Italy weavers were doing experimental artesian velvets. With varying layers of color and the piling of different lengths and materials, the effects were elaborate and sought out by the royals and wealthy elite. They even incorporated gold papers and thread in the process for a royal elegant effect. Later the process was picked up by the Flemish artesian weavers.
It was in the 17th century that silk weaving came to England by the Huguenots in Spiralfields, London. Mackeslfield England was once the center of the English silk weaving and where my ancestors once owned silk mills prior to coming to America.
During the Victorian Era velvets were still quite expensive and not affordable for most working class families. For the well off society, velvet was a staple in their lives. Velvet became a form of etiquette in some cases as velvet drapes were the norm to separate private from public places. It was also considered in poor taste to have under decorated spaces in Victorian times and velvet could be found all over the home in opulent ways. Victorian clothing and accessories embraced velvet as well with many women wearing elaborate gowns with large hats and bags to match. Yes, velvet really made a home in Victorian times. During the Industrial Revolution, velvet evolved to include cotton and synthetic fibers to make it more affordable and mainstream.
During the late 60s and 70s velvet became very popular and showed up in everything from clothing and accessories to furniture. It was highly sought out and really exploded on the fashion scene due to the less expensive velvets being produced. I remember the velvet pantsuits and bellbottoms, they were legendary. I missed out on the 70s but did own a pair of jewel toned Gloria Vanderbilt’s in the early 80s. We all had a pair. Then in the 90s came the crushed velvet in the, it was everywhere and gave new texture and more flow to the fabric.
Today velvet is still widely used in fashion and home goods. It is a rich and decadent fabric that lends well with other fabrics and textures.
– The Different Types of Velvet
Today there are actually 17 different types of velvet available and they are as follows:
1. Plain: Simple cotton made velvet with a firm hand touch.
2. Pile on Pile or Double Velvet: Similar to the layering of piles used in Italy. It is rather luxurious and one of the oldest techniques used.
3. Chiffon: The sheerest of the velvets, also referred to as transparent and it is actually made on either a silk or rayon base layer.
4. Crushed: This velvet retains a pattern and is far more pliable and quite soft. This is due to the process of pressing and stretching the fabric in various directions or twisting it while it is wet.
5. Embossed: It is the heated treatment to retain a pattern on the fabric.
6. Hammered: Similar to crushed velvet this is hammered into an extremely soft and lush feel.
7. Lyons: This is a denser weave, stiffer and heavier, perfect for accessories and harder edge garments.
8. Minor: This refers to the soft light texture of this crushed velvet.
9. Nacre: A woven velvet with one or even several colors while the base is a different color. It creates a subtle iridescent effect.
10.Ponson: A very heavy expensive velvet made entirely of silk or at least the pile is all silk.
11. Ultnecth: It is made by pressing and crimping, a process created in the Netherlands.
12. Velveteen: A type of imitation velvet is usually made from all cotton, sometimes a bit of silk is used. It’s pile is very short, under 3mm and is very tightly weaved. It does not flow or catch the light like real velvet.
13. Voided: This is woven with satin to create patterns with lack of pile
14. Wedding Ring, Devore or Chiffon Velvet: A chiffon type thin enough to be pulled threw a wedding ring.
15. Panne: A single direction crushed velvet and is similar to velour.
16. Devore: This is treated with a caustic solution to create a pattern by dissolving parts away.
17. Cisele’: This is where the pattern is created in the piles prior to weaving by layering cut and uncut loops.
*If you would like to tell the difference between real velvet and a blended one, just hold it up to the light and look at it as you move it. If the color changes as it moves, it is silk. If it glares white then it is a blend and reflects light. Also the feel would be as the term suggests, “Smooth as Silk”.
– Caring for and Cleaning Velvet
Hang velvet clothing on a padded hanger. Wire hangers can damage the fabric and leave creases. If you must store it flat then roll it carefully instead of folding it. For long term storage, place the garment in a breathable cotton or canvas bag.
When it comes to cleaning velvet, first and foremost, read the label. If it says to have it professionally cleaned, take it to a professional cleaner. For spot cleaning you want to use a gentle dish soap and lightly dampen a clean cloth and squeeze out very well. Dab the stain very carefully, never rub velvet as it could crush the pile and leave a mark. If you must clean your garment 100%, mix a couple drops of gentle dish soap into a basin or sink of cold water. You can add a spoonful of baking soda to remove musty odors. This is especially helpful for vintage velvet. Submerge and gently swish the garment and let it soak for up to 15 minutes and rinse in cold water. When you remove it, don’t squeeze the item and do not hang in the sun. Carefully place between two towels and press to remove excess water, lie flat to dry or hang on a padded hanger.
You can also freshen a piece of velvet clothing by hanging it in a steamy bathroom. This really helps to revive a piece. In fact, many stains are actually dents in the pile. It is seen oftentimes in vintage pieces and accessories. I have had great success removing them with steam. Carefully steam the spot and brush to remove the dent or crease in the velvet.
Pressing velvet is quite tricky; due to the pile it can’t be ironed on a typical board. You need to steam it using a needle board, or a fluffy towel may work in a pinch. Place the pile side down and carefully steam the seams. A cloth for pressing may be necessary to prevent over-ironing or overheating, as that can damage the fabric permanently. Carefully steam hems, darts, and heavier areas and place brown paper between top and bottom layers. Test areas carefully as steaming must be done very delicately to preserve the velvet.
If the velvet is faded or stained beyond what can be cleaned, there is always the possibility of dyeing the garment. Velvet actually dyes quite well.
When it comes to velvet shoes, spray them with a water protectant and avoid wearing them in wet weather. To remove stains use a stiff brush to carefully brush away dirt and debris.
Polyester or polyester blend velvets and micro velvets hold up well to gentle machine wash on cold and tumble dry on low heat.
– Working With Velvet
Velvet can pose unique challenges when sewing, such as lining your velvet clothing may be necessary to avoid clinging. Silk and rayon velvet material is trickier than others. The polyester, cotton and blends are the easiest to handle.
Take care when cutting your patterns to the direction of the pile. Sew in the direction of the pile as well. Always rewove pins as soon as possible as they can leave permanent holes. Also leave a generous seam when cutting to allow for any fraying in the process. Slipping is a concern and you may wish to baste all your seams first. Sew from top to bottom, holding tightly to the fabric.
– Dressing in Velvet
Velvet is a gorgeous lux fabric that adds an air of sophistication to any outfit at any time of the year. It is three times more absorbent than cotton and hides perspiration very well. It also generally does not irritate the skin. It does not trap heat and is ideal for summer wear.
I have found that you can really go bold with the accessories and make up when dressing up with velvet. From luscious jewel tones to the more modern muted tones, velvet can handle a lot of additional eye-candy. Touches of embroidery to fully embroidered pieces can give a real stylish punch to your existing wardrobe. Deep, dark tones really do flatter the skin. They say not to go full velvet in an outfit, but, if you find a fabulous pantsuit or one piece, go for it. It’s a good idea to build around a great piece of velvet clothing, making it the statement of your outfit. A smart jacket, a flowy skirt, dress or top. You can even add a nice lux touch with accessories. A simple black ribbon with a single charm can add a touch of Victorian charm to your outfit. You can always find trending pieces in clothing or accessories made in velvet. It is a wonderful and elegant fabric that can be worn formally or casually.
Pair velvet pieces with lace and flowy florals. A velvet skirt or pants with a lace blouse, a floral top or a gem colored satin or silk blouse for a ultra famine and refined look. A velvet cocktail dress will absolutely transform you in the most flattering way. Velvet just looks great on any complexion, it really flatters the skin. I once owned a deep purple short cocktail dress that flattered me like no other. I received compliments every time I wore it and I felt exquisite. It reminded me of the iconic purple dress made by Victor Edelstein for Princess Diana for her royal portrait along side the prince of Wales in 1991. She wore it again in a Vanity Fair Shoot in 1997. It was perfection.
– The Upcoming Trends in Velvet for 2023
Velvet is absolutely huge this year, and you will find sumptuous colors in everything from jackets, suits, dresses, even swimwear. Say ‘bye bye’ to the cozy dress of the pandemic era. Velvet is slated to hail in the maximalist style in glorious fashion. From body-hugging mod dresses to wide flowing pants, velvet is showing up in every style as well. Bold cut-out tops and dresses for those daring moments. Gothic styles reminiscent of Victorian times are finding their place this season, too. This Holiday Season is expected to be a most elegant year in fashion with rich tones in every hue, and styles for every taste. It is a very exciting time. Give velvet a try. It really is the most transformative fabric there is. You can’t help but feel elegant simply by wearing it.
I think it is easy to see why my grandmother chose the royal blue velvet fabric for her wedding gown. Rich and luxurious with a history deep in her family roots. It was the perfect choice and she looked absolutely breath-taking.
La Marelle Couture 
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